Sunday, June 08, 2008

I give up

I have lost count of the amount of hours I have now spent trying to sand the edges of the plates, trying to get them to line up. Frustrating to say the very least. I can not work out where I have gone wrong... This is no fun.

Time taken :
Tools used :
AU$'s spent :

7 comments:

Greg said...

G'Day Ted,

I hate that word -Give Up!

I dont know if this is any help,but I made up a "Shooting Board" when I was joining some Electric Bodies.

By using this everything should end up parralel..

http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/boboswin/blog/3407

Greg said...
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David said...

Don't give up! A couple of thing your pictures don't show. First, when I do mine I only have the plates overhang the support board by a small amount, maybe 5mm or so. That keeps them solid. The other thing I do is I clamp an aluminum bar across the boards to hold them very tightly down so there is no chance of them moving at all. A piece of stiff wood will work too. Lastly, when I sand I only go in one direction like I would be doing with a plane.

With a good properly set up table saw, you might be able to actually get a good joint using nothing more than the saw. I was able to get both of the Twin tops and backs joined using just my table saw and a tiny bit of touch up with a sanding block.

Take your time and go slow. It is frustrating (the redwood top I am working on now took me a few hours to get!) but once you get it you will be glad you took the time.

David

David said...
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David said...
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Kym said...

Hi

By coincidence this appeared on the web only yesterday.
http://home.comcast.net/~kathymatsushita/More%20Projects/htmlpages/atc1.html
I'm sure it's not as easy as she makes it look, but that jig doesn't look all that complicated, especially compared to the radius dishes you've already completed.
Good luck: I enjoy seeing your accomplishments so far.

John C said...

I found I get fastest and best results with a 2-step process.

Step 1 is hand planing to remove gouges, cracks, and saw marks.

Step 2 is sanding to flatten the joint. I use coarse (100 grit) 1" wide sanding cloth on rolls for the joint because it cuts fast and you can tear off a 3 foot long piece to lay across the Table saw deck. 1 long edge gets clamped under the Fence to keep it from sliding around.

I found I had to clamp down a "Fence" to the flat sanding surface. Soundboards need fences that are at least 4" (100mm) tall

I found a 3' (1m) length of 6" (150mm) square metal box tube worked very well... as Steel box tube is square enough to start with.

Check and square your fence by shimming until the face is square to your sanding surface.

When pushing the soundboard across the deck.... You will get hollows where you are holding your hands -- so if you hold in the middle, it will hollow in the middle.... Same with the edges.

Solution... Sand a couple strokes, check with a straight edge. Move your hold to the high spot. Sand a little more. Check again..... You will make progress.

Finally, check each piece on a good straight edge before trying to candle the pieces together. That way you will know which piece is out of whack and needs more work.

Good luck

John