Getting there. Slowly getting there. More and more brace work. I keep going sideways, just to get away from the brace work. This is where I am at at the moment, minus the finger braces which I have roughed out.
I acknowledge that it could be said that I am not blogging as well on this second guitar. I really appreciate the feed back that I have been getting from David and Greg as it reminds me that I might be not giving enough information to make an accurate record. Please shout out if you'd like to know something - or if I have missed a step...
Tonight, I started routing out the channels where the back braces meet the sides. I totally mucked up one of the back braces, hitting it too hard with the chisel and making it too thin. I also feel a lump around the blocks? I will have a look at that further tomorrow.
I flipped the sides over and glued the kerfing to the top rim, making a huge mess. Take note, the LMI white glue is thick when it is cold and surprisingly (not) much more fluid when it is warm.
Time taken : Five hours or so
Tools used : glue, chisel, Dremel, sandpaper... nothing new.
AU$'s spent : Nil
Monday, January 08, 2007
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2 comments:
Glad to see you are back. When I built my dread, I had the same issues with getting the head and tail stocks perfectly level and square with each other. I tried the same thing you did using the center brace as a guide and it didn't work for me either. I finally used clamps and a square to get them straight to my work surface but in then end, the head block was a tiny bit out of square. I had to do a little work on the neck to get it alligned properly. It wasn't a huge deal, but I found it interesting that the stewmac video said that the majority of the time the heal would need to be adjusted to get the fingerboard to move upwards in the saddle. Mine was the opposite. I had to adjust the cheek cuts to lower the fingerboard to the saddle. When I started, the straight edge was about 1/4" above the saddle block.
This is why I decided to put the effort into making an external mold and radius dishes. Of course, once I made this decision, a go-bar deck is required. It seems like it will be easier to get the blocks square this way. I had a lot of trouble with the waist clamp and internal mold so I didn't want to try that again. This just seems like it will be a more solid way to get things right.
Whoops, wrong day. This was supposed to go with the attaching the back day.
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